With Coco Chanel being the subject matter of a number of recent films, and Russia being very much on the up and coming cultural radar under Valery Gergiev’s guidance, it is no surprise to learn that Chanel has reintroduced a famous scent from their past – 1927’s Cuir de Russe. Legend has it that Cuir de Russie was born when a Cossack warrior rubbed birch fat into his fine leather boots on the Russian steppes. Whoever did it first, it is certain that tanneries of the area cured skins in such a way, and the scent produced inspired perfumers in France. It is a very physical fragrance, evoking warriors riding in wide open spaces.
Guerlain produced a Cuir de Russie fragrance in 1875, and Creed created one for Errol Flynn in 1938. Chanel created hers in 1924, and it is still highly regarded today. Luca Turin, the fragrance biophysicist, describes it as ‘a striking hologram of luxury bygone: its scent like running the hand over the pearl grey banquette of an Isotta Frashini while forests of birch silently pass by.’ In the early twentieth century Paris was heavily influenced by Russian culture. Many Russians emigrated to the city after the 1917 revolution and their culture became very fashionable.







This afternoon I leave the chilly climes of Beijing for the sunnier shores of Phuket, taking part in the annual